Sugar Field GuideBags

Hermès / 1930s

Kelly

One handle, a trapezoid body, and a precise strap closure. The first distinction to learn is Sellier versus Retourne.

Look closer ↓
Bleu Zanzibar Evercolor Kelly 28 Retourne
Bleu Zanzibar Evercolor Kelly 28 RetourneImage: Sotheby’s ↗

The details, in colour

Notable Kelly examples

Three documented examples, chosen for the differences in proportion, surface and detail.

Bleu Zanzibar Evercolor Kelly 28 Retourne

Bleu Zanzibar · Retourne 28

Evercolor · gold hardware · catalogued 2017

Rounded Retourne edges and a saturated blue establish the contrast with the smaller Sellier and Togo examples.

Photo & reference: Sotheby’s ↗
Bleu Glacier · Sellier 25; Ostrich · gold hardware · catalogued 2021

Bleu Glacier · Sellier 25

Ostrich · gold hardware · catalogued 2021

The quill pattern makes the material distinction visible, while the Sellier edges offer a construction contrast to the blue Retourne 28.

Photo & reference: Sotheby’s ↗
Colvert · Retourne 25; Togo · palladium hardware · catalogued 2017

Colvert · Retourne 25

Togo · palladium hardware · catalogued 2017

A compact Retourne in blue-green Colvert. Compare the Togo grain and rounded edge with the ostrich Sellier at the same nominal size.

Photo & reference: Sotheby’s ↗

Documented examples, not availability listings. Manufacturer and auction-house descriptions identify each configuration; photographs remain credited to their sources.

Family and pictured example

Understanding the Hermès Kelly

For a Kelly, the size number is only half the description. Sellier and Retourne change the edges and outline; the leather changes the surface. The pictured Bleu Zanzibar Evercolor Kelly 28 Retourne is a specific example of the rounded-edge construction, rather than a template for every Kelly.

Kelly history and naming

Robert Dumas created the design in the 1930s. Its association with Grace Kelly helped turn the bag into a house signature. Today the family spans miniature bags, classic handbags, and larger travel interpretations. [1]

Proportions and variants

Kelly formats: check construction alongside size

Selected reference sizes, not a complete historical inventory. The Kelly name also appears on pouches, messenger bags, and travel pieces with different proportions.

Kelly formats: check construction alongside size
VersionWhat is documentedWhat to compareEvidence
MiniThe house shows a Kelly II Sellier mini.Identify generation and actual dimensions; Mini is not a guarantee of phone fit.[1]
25The house shows Kelly II Retourne 25.Compare opening and handle clearance, then the included strap.[1]
28The pictured Sotheby’s record identifies Kelly 28 Retourne in Evercolor.Request measurements and condition evidence for this individual example.[4]
32Hermès shows both Sellier and Retourne 32.A useful same-size comparison: look at edge shape rather than width alone.[1]
40 and related formatsHermès describes a range from mini to 40, plus separate pouches, messenger and travel designs.A Kelly Dépêches pouch is not simply a smaller classic handbag.[1]

Measurements are published exterior specifications unless stated otherwise. A size name is not a measured capacity or a guarantee of fit.

Look closer

Sellier, Retourne and leather are separate choices

Sellier, Retourne and leather are separate choices
AttributeDocumented distinctionInspection implicationEvidence
SellierExterior stitching and straight, defined edges.Inspect edge finish and stitch line in side views.[2]
RetourneInterior stitching with rounded, piped edges.Ask for unfilled images so stuffing does not disguise the silhouette.[2]
Epsom / TogoSpecialist leather guidance describes Epsom as embossed and shape-retaining, Togo as naturally pebbled and supple.Leather identity does not replace a construction description.[5]

Inspection prompts are editorial suggestions. A construction feature, stamp or accessory alone cannot establish authenticity; this guide does not authenticate individual bags.

Before buying and carrying

Kelly buying and ownership questions

Will a Kelly 28 fit more than a 25?

A larger size label indicates a different format, but usable room depends on the opening, shape and what you carry. Ask for measured interior and opening dimensions and a demonstration with your largest item. Do not calculate capacity by multiplying external dimensions.

How can I distinguish Sellier from Retourne?

Use the edges: visible exterior stitching and a crisp outline point to Sellier, while piped rounded edges and hidden seams describe Retourne. Ask for clear side and corner images. This terminology helps classify construction; it is not an authentication test. [2]

What matters about the strap?

Record whether a strap is present, its length, attachment condition and any replacement history. Ask to see both clips and the attachment points. A shoulder or crossbody fit depends on your torso and clothing; a seller’s size label cannot settle it.

What makes two listings fairly comparable?

Match size, construction, leather and hardware first, then age attribution, restoration, accessories and condition. Request photos of the handle underside, corners, closure straps and lining. Compare written condition reports, not just front-facing photographs.

What this guide can establish

Kelly evidence, condition and price context

Pictured colour: Bleu Zanzibar

Sotheby’s 2026 Handbags and Accessories catalogue identifies lot 569, SKU DP4B9, as a 2017 Bleu Zanzibar Evercolor Kelly 28 Retourné with gold hardware and Twilly. The lot page’s embedded public data contains the same hk1775-dp4b9-t3-02.jpg photo used here. This supports the pictured colour attribution, not a claim that its finish is unrestored. [4]

Colour evidence checked 2026-09-20. This establishes a documented reference or sale example, not current stock availability, an independently verified original finish, or an exact screen-to-object colour match.

House pages support selected format names and history; specialist construction descriptions support the edge comparison. Full comparative measurements, weights and wearer-fit tests are absent. The pictured lot’s public embedded data and auction-house catalogue identify its colour and match its image asset; this is seller documentation, not a physical inspection.

Retail quotes, dealer asking prices and completed auction results measure different things. For a useful comparison, record the date, currency, taxes or buyer’s premium, exact configuration, condition, restoration and accessories. This page does not provide a current market price or forecast future value.

This is a desk-researched independent guide. No firsthand carrying test or external expert review is claimed. Photo credit identifies the linked source; it does not establish a reuse licence. Read our editorial method and corrections policy.

References and provenance

Sources for the Kelly guide

House pages support specifications and brand history. Auction-house articles supply specialist descriptions; individual sale listings describe particular examples. The tables link each factual comparison to the numbered sources below. Reviewed .

The blue image remains linked to its original attribution in the photo caption. Availability of historical sale pages can change.

  1. Hermès — Kelly collection ↗
  2. Sotheby’s — Sellier and Retourne construction ↗
  3. Sotheby’s — Kelly 28 examples ↗
  4. Sotheby’s — pictured blue example ↗
  5. Christie’s — Hermès leather characteristics (specialist reference) ↗

Keep exploring

Next in the guide.